A few years ago, I planned a bike trip across the French and Italian Riviera. As a young father, I didn’t want to be away from home for long, so I designed a route from Loano in Liguria to Monaco, ambitious, but manageable in a day. I expected it to be beautiful. I did not expect it to change me. I prepared everything the night before, bike checked, bags packed, and went to bed earlier than usual. The train from Loano was due just after 6 a.m. The ride to the next station was

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